The UP150R offers HSI, RGBW, and GEL modes, a colour temperature range of 1,800K to 10,000K, and 14 FX effects. Across two months of use, I have mostly used the bi-colour mode, adjusting between approximately 4,000K and 6,000K depending on the lighting situation and ambient light.
The amount of flexibility is excellent, and the colour accuracy is generally pretty good, although I always colour-check with the Datacolor light meter to confirm. My standard practice is to leave any light on for 5 to 10 minutes to fully warm up before checking and adjusting, and if you are running multiple lights in a setup, I would recommend setting them all up together, leaving them on for 5 to 10 minutes, then checking each colour temperature against your meter and noting any variation. Once you know the differences between your lights, you can match them all to roughly 5,600K, and your lighting will look significantly better in almost any situation.
On colour fidelity, what I have found over the years is that unless you are using extremely expensive lighting, the colour temperature shown on the controller and the actual colour temperature falling on your subject is always going to be a little out. With the UP150R mixed against daylight measuring around 5,000K, I needed to adjust the panel to about 5,300K to get an accurate match on the subject, around a 300K difference between the readout and reality.
Some of this is reflective light in the room, which would normally bring the difference down to around 150K. Compared against other Godox lights, the UP150R matched well, and the only consistent adjustment I had to make was when mixing with Nanlite panels, where there was again around a 150K to 300K difference.
The Godox Light App with NFC pairing is one of the standout features for me. Once you have the app installed, you essentially just tap your phone to the light, and pairing happens almost immediately. Once connected, you can set up the UP150R alongside other Godox lights as part of a coordinated rig.
If you are using an iPad, iPhone, or Android device, you can build a lighting control board on your screen and adjust each light separately or in groups. For solo shooters, this is genuinely valuable because being able to adjust your lighting without having to walk over to each light and fiddle with the onboard controls is a real workflow advantage. The 30m Bluetooth range was more than enough for everything I have done with the light, although I have not pushed it to the limit.
Wired DMX/RDM control is also supported and is the right choice for larger productions running multiple lights through a DMX board. For my use, the Godox Light App on the iPad has been the primary control method and worked reliably, with only a couple of occasions where the connection between the light and the iPad needed a few attempts to re-establish.
Direct V-mount battery support is one of the headline features and one of the most practically important for me. When you are working on location, you cannot always be guaranteed a plug socket, so having a V-mount or another battery solution that connects directly is genuinely useful. During this two-month test, there was only one occasion when I plugged into the AC mains, and for the rest of the time I used either the DJI Power 1000 Mini I have been reviewing recently or three SmallRig V-Lock batteries I carry in my backpack.
On the SmallRig V-Lock side, I have mainly been using the
SmallRig VB155 (155Wh), which has been a perfect physical fit for the UP150R, alongside one
SmallRig x Caleb Pike VB212 (212Wh) when I needed extra capacity. The VB212 has great runtime but is heavier and harder to hold. With the UP150R at full power, I get just under an hour from a single VB155, dropping to around an hour and a half at 50% output, which means three VB155 batteries get me through most of a day’s shoot. When I needed longer continuous runtime, the DJI Power 1000 Mini provided the backup, giving approximately 5 hours at full output, around 9 hours at 50%, and almost 18 hours at 25% for ambient lighting use.
The dual-light expansion via a straight connector is something I could only assess theoretically because I have only had the one UP150R for the test. A single light is a great solution, but it can be slightly limiting. For professional work, I would absolutely go for two units, possibly three, with the panel positioned about 2 feet from the subject for a natural look. A second UP150R as a back light from a high angle would add useful ambience, and a further pair of smaller panels would create properly cinematic lighting.
The advanced dimming options, including linear, S-curve, exponential, and logarithmic curves alongside the 0.0% to 100.0% range and -100% to +100% GM adjustment, offer plenty of flexibility for creative work. To be honest, I have not used the dimming curve options much in my work, but they are there if you need to progressively dim the light for cinematic effects, and the full RGB and FX modes has been useful when I have needed them.